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We tend to think of wineries planting
grapes; watering them on occasion and then, when the
time is ripe (notice the play on words?) pick them and
make wine. Well, as true as that may be, there is so
much more that goes on here it’s worth discussing.
When we first tasted the Frosted
Cake Merlot, we were knocked out by the integration
of flavors, the fullness of those flavors without being
overdone and the long, beautifully balanced finish.
We innocently asked how the wine was made and instead
of the usual grapes to wine diatribe, we got a lesson
in clonal selection.
All grapevines are not created
equal. Some of them are more resistant to certain diseases.
Some can stand hotter or cooler weather during the growing
season and some can make the same quality of wine with
larger yields than others. Whew! We had no idea how
important this was.
The young winemaking team at Frosted
Cake obviously does. They chose to plant Merlot clone
181 (our new favorite number!). Instead of choosing
a clone that would produce more grapes, thus increasing
yield and getting more grapes for your money, they chose
a clone that would actually produce less grapes per
vine so that each grape would have more flavor and intensity.
They also chose to plant it on the most expensive vineyard
land in the United States, the Napa Valley. Most wineries
plant a variety of clones. Many have 181 for flavor
and intensity but also plant clones that produce more
grapes per vine so that they can have higher yields.
Frosted Cake is one of the few wineries that go for
the best they can without regard for quantity.
As if that isn’t enough, they
also use exclusively Bordeaux yeast for slower fermentation
and lower alcohol levels. They use the most expensive
grape crusher made, which very gently presses the grapes
to extract flavor without extracting bitter tannins
from crushed stems and seeds. And finally, they age
the wine in the most expensive French oak barrels, half
of which are new at a cost of over $1,000 a piece. Makes
you wonder how they make any money when they can deliver
a wine like this at this price.
No more questions. Just enjoy
this gem.
- Merlot
- (Mare-low)
- 2007
- Frosted Cake
- Napa, California
- Color: Deep purple
- Nose: Currant, black cherry
and chocolate
- Palate: Very clean cranberry
and soft tannins
- Finish: Long and foreboding
with cherry and vanilla
- WOMC Rating: 91
- Drink now through 2012
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